CHANGE THERE MUST PROVE A WIDER EVOLUTION AND NO SECONDARY FACTORS DISTRACT
I needed to do field work for a doctorate in African history. When the Ivory Coast's University of Abidjan offered lodging and Ministry of the Interior support in exchange for three months of teaching, I was happy to accept.
Djimini is the forgotten territory on the fringe of forest and savannah, where the terrifying slave-raider Samory established an empire before he was defeated by the French.
Adapted from a Google map
After consulting the archives during the months of teaching, I went to Dabakala, which except for a much smaller Muslim center (Darhala) was the area's only town.
Adapted from Britannica
that harbored two or three male travelers and a Fulani prostitute, who wore big earrings and a long red dress. I left my bag with her and wearing a huge hat to protect from the sun, walked two miles on the hot and dusty road until I came to a ranch house, set off from it as if it were a palace.
A servant answered my knock. I said I would like to see the sous-préfet (the regional government head). "He's sleeping," the servant said. "I'll wait," I answered, "Please don't wake him up."
He woke him up.
A tall, handsome, very dark man wearing a colorful wax toga entered. He yawned and rubbed his eyes because he had just woken up, or from surprise. Occasionally French "co-opérants" (government specialists) travelled through the region, but white women never did.
I was just as surprised, and said that I had told the servant not to wake him and was very, very sorry that he had. Coming out of my confrontation with the Dean and the subsequent upheaval (and being very young), diplomacy with officials was not my way. But my embarrassment was real and established his authority. For once, I said the right thing.
I explained that I had come to do research on the region's history, that I hoped he would help me and handed him the letter from the Minister. He looked at it, looked at me again, and said, "I will do so. You may stay with me and my family for as long as you like."